East of the Yucatán Peninsula, on top of the age-old structures of the Mayan coral reef, the second largest in the world, stands the Island of Cozumel, the largest inhabited island in Mexico. Its name, derived from the word Cuzamil, meaning “island of swallows” in Maya, conjures up memories of its pre-Hispanic origin, the conquest of America and the pirates and buccaneers that thronged its seas.

The Island of Cozumel measures 48 km from north to south but only 16 from east to west. On either side of the island, beaches form a long, white sandy coast. Gentle waves and transparent waters wash the western side of the island, while huge waves crash against the eastern side. Its flora and fauna have a number of unusual features and include certain endemic species, such as the dwarf raccoon and the Cozumel wren. Cozumel’s greatest wealth, however, lies underwater.

Before the arrival of the conquistadors, the island was a major commercial and ceremonial center. During the colonial era, it was largely uninhabited, except for sporadic stays by pirates and turtle hunters. In the mid-19th century, groups of settlers arrived from the Yucatán Peninsula, fleeing the War of the Castes. The following years saw the development of the chicle extraction business on the mainland and Cozumel became a center for collecting and subsequently exporting this gum. Jacques Cousteau’s declarations in 1960 about the richness of the coral reef surrounding the island made underwater enthusiasts aware of Cozumel’s existence.

Cozumel is encircled by over 25 reef formations, where divers of all ages and levels can explore a fascinating world: endless colonies of corals inhabited by enormous shoals of brightly colored fish. The possibilities are infinite, for novice and expert divers alike. San Miguel de Cozumel, the capital of the island, is a peaceful old village, with all the charm of the Mexican Caribbean. The quality of its gastronomy, based on its excellent seafood, is legendary throughout the region. Its provincial air does not make it any less comfortable or modern. Its days are sunny and full of unforgettable experiences, while its nights are ideal for those who enjoy discotheques and bars. A wide range of accommodation is available, from deluxe hotels, to small, inexpensive hostels.